RUST IN PIECES: PART 1- Rust Never Sleeps: An Exploration of the Verde Valley’s Iron-soaked Landscape

"When the thrasher comes, I'll be stuck in the sun like the dinosaurs in shrines... But I'll know the time has come to give what's mine... -Neil Young, Thrasher (from the Rust Never Sleeps album)

To borrow a phrase from Neil Young circa 1979, rust never sleeps.

The phrase, also the title for his album and tour with the band Crazy Horse, was used to describe the concept of avoiding artistic complacency while the band explored a diverse range of theatrical presentations during their performances.

Indeed, rust is a verb, always evolving, rather than a static state. It is an interaction of iron compounds with oxygen and water which creates colors ranging from blazing orange siennas to rich and deep earthen browns. Unlike its cousin verdigris, it does not form a protective layer around its host, it is more like a slow degradation, a long, drawn-out death. It is IRONic, don’t you think?

In a way, rust operates like a zen koan. It makes me think of the notion of “one hand clapping.” If we look at it as metaphor, it has a lot to teach us about past, present and future, and the essence of reality in general. We are surrounded by rust- literally and metaphorically. We are all rusting to varying degrees- ever heard of the term “oxidative stress?” It is the “major force behind aging” as author John Lauerman put it in an issue of Harvard Magazine.

"You are already one with all that is." -Buddha

Where I live in north-central Arizona, our mountains are infused with iron oxide, and are literally rusting. Hence the colloquialism “red rock country.”

Antelope Canyon, near Page, AZ

There are also plenty of decrepit earth moving machines of all shapes and sizes left over from various mining operations which took place throughout the region back in the early days of Arizona’s statehood. Too heavy to move, they were simply abandoned to time- a sprawling outdoor museum no one asked for. Which isn’t to say they aren’t in their own way, admirable. To me, they represent a sense of surrender. What does one do when all options are exhausted; when nothing is left to plunder? Like Buddha, they simply sit. They are at rest, yet they are alive, transcendent.

They also represent at their best, human industriousness, and at their worst, greed, destruction and negligence. I sometimes imagine how pure the Earth used to be, before modern humans decided it would be a hood idea to burrow and blast holes into mountains, looking for treasure. Depending on the type of mine, the aftermath left behind ranges from enormous piles of “slag” (tailings) to radioactive waste in areas which were left to slowly seep into the water supply and/ or swirl into the air whenever a strong wind comes along. Yes, there are plenty of these areas which have not been properly mitigated- shocking.

Some mining sites are fairly harmless and are even safe-ish to walk around in, save for the various species of rattlesnakes and other venomous denizens who slither and crawl around among the leavings. Also, don't be a fool and crawl into an abandoned mine. Those things can collapse within a moment's notice!

Verde Salt Mine

A gallery of images I took @ Verde Salt Mine.

In Camp Verde, one such site exists and is even being slowly turned into an officially designated trail. It is simply called the Verde Salt Mine. In its current state, the site is a series of sandy peaks and valleys, dusted in a salty white crust, with various decaying implements strewn about. To walk upon it makes me think of astronauts on the moon. It is an utterly foreign feeling, although I’ve heard some people say it’s like walking on snow. In my opinion, it’s drier, so to speak. Mars-ier if you will.

Among the dunes are the old rusting relics: long-since out of commission machines, random chunks of scrap and rebar, with the occasional wooden beam or ladder lying about like sleeping dogs.

Though the site hasn’t been in operation since circa 1960, plenty of folks venture out to stroll among the quietude, to climb to the highest point and take in a 360-degree view of the surrounding landscape, and to explore the various materials left behind. I have also learned recently that if you look in the right areas, you might luck out and find selenite pseudomorphs, a type of fragile crystal formation that looks similar to desert rose. When I was out exploring, I did find some of what I believe to be the beginnings of these formations, which I left to finish their transformation.

For about an hour, I explored the site, until the sun began to cast a blazing orange glow over the valley below. I stood on the highest point and looked about, feeling remarkably peaceful and energized. I felt like I’d just discovered Machu Picchu or somewhere similar, once inhabited by a previously unknown civilization. For a moment, I felt like Buddha himself; but instead of sitting under the great Bodhi tree, I stood atop of an abandoned mine, with one hand clapping. It's a funny old world.

Next stop...Jerome. Plenty of leftover relics there!

P.s. I apologize for the lack of glittery galleries. At the moment, I am not able to afford to have my domain/ premium account reinstated, so all pics & video in the past few posts have been included via HTML. If you'd like to donate, visit the Support My Work section of this website. All donations are greatly appreciated!

Copyright 2025 Lo Frisby.